Morocco - Chefchaouen / Akchour

Africa
City
Nature
Author

Oliver Eaton

Published

June 30, 2023

The road to Chefchaouen was potholed and non-existent at times. It made for an exciting drive in our little Fiat. I’m not a good driver (even on a good day), and Trav would groan whenever I made the car jump and shudder.


After four hours or so we arrived in Chefchaouen, the blue city. It was Eid al-Fitr so most shops were shut. Regardless, Trav & I explored the old-town blue city Medina and were constantly approached to buy hash or book a tour to a nearby hash farm. We declined all offers, it was too hot to even listen to pushy touts. Instead, I completely ignored them, removing everyone who approached us from my field of vision.


After a lunch break in the blue city, we drove to Akchour which is a valley with flowing river just forty-minute drive from Chefchaouen. Here we planned on free camping on the riverside. However, we discovered that cafes and shops lined the river all the way up until the end of the hike (which wasn’t long). There were also signs posted saying “No Camping!”, so like obedient people, we decided against engaging in illegal activity.

It also happened to be Trav’s birthday, the big three-zero (30)! So we perched up at the end of the hike, under God’s Bridge, slurped back a few Gin & Tonics and swam in the river. Wow! The water was cold and inviting. I wasn’t aware how twisted my brain was from the heat, because after immersing myself in the water I emerged a new, calmer, more focused and relaxed version of myself, unbelievable! Now I understand why many bodies of water, particularly in this area of the world, are worshipped with biblical value, and are things of myth & folklore.

Over drink & cigarette, we discussed our sleep options. We had spied a (paid) campsite near the entrance of Akchour and decided on showing up there. So we did exactly that, just showed up. By this time it was dark and we set up camp by headlamp. Trav talked to a young guy working there, enquiring about hash. He said he could get us some stuff for 20dirham in the next hour. He came later, and we slipped him a 50 for his troubles. That’s probably the best way to buy hash in Morocco; ask locals who aren’t dealers, those who do not approach you.

We continued celebrating Trav’s birthday with copious amounts of G&T, hash and cigarettes, before feeling completely dazed and heading to the tent for sleep. Soon after lying down, my head started spinning and my body felt like it was swimming through a thick sludge. The spins! - A feeling my teenage self is familiar with. Strongly, I spoke to Trav “Open the door, get out of the way!” and I ran outside to relieve myself, spewing my guts out in the process. Damn, it’s been a while since partaking in drugs has hit me like that…but, it was Trav’s birthday, what else was I supposed to do?


Wrap up

The next morning we awoke to a nice cool temperature. Camping next to the river was very relaxing. The babbling sound of water streaming across rock and the noticeably cooler temperature made for an extremely peaceful atmosphere. It was a nice setting. Chicken and Peacock roamed freely around the campsite. Before setting off for Rabat, we lay in the river, soaking up its magical properties.